Climbing indoors has become a sport unto itself. For many, gym climbing is a winter pastime, something to do until the bike and hiking trails dry up in the spring. But for those of you looking to make the transition from plastic to the hallowed cliffs of Eldorado Canyon or the granite domes of the South Platte, let’s talk business.

A Word on the Gym

Before we get down to slaying some 5.12s, a couple thoughts on the gym scene. Climbing indoors is a great way to improve strength, begin developing technique and meet other climbers. While the vibe inside may feel relaxed, there’s still potential for carnage—don’t let your guard down. Just last week I watched a guy fall from 25 feet up. Yes, in the gym, and yes, his belayer was using an auto-locking belay device. The point is—gym climbing is still climbing—a proper belay and attentive technique is required.

Stay heads up in there: Don’t get careless and stand below a leader, because if his belayer drops him you’re going to get your head sunken two inches into your shoulders. While belaying, don’t do the cool-guy euro sport-loop either: have enough slack in your system not to annoy your climber.

Get Outside

All right, now for some vertical mileage in the outdoors. Chances are you’ve learned to belay in the gym and your movement skills are coming along. Capitalize on that winter strength you developed indoors and let’s hit some cliffs. Be patient and allow yourself to progress slowly and you’ll be sending on rock by summer’s end.

You already know the basics of toproping; this is the style of climbing most people enjoy in the gym. The rope’s already looped through anchors at the top of the wall—or cliff, since we’re now outdoors. The trick now is finding or building solid, safe anchors on which to toprope. At this point it’s worth expanding your climbing knowledge.

You can pick up any of several books on the subject. First off, Fred Knapp’s Front Range Topropes will give you dozens of ideas for toproping sites. What you’re looking for are cliffs at which you can walk around the side or back of the rock, build your anchor and get climbing. Many spots—like Golden or Morrison Cliffs—have bolt anchors already installed. At others you’ll need to build your own anchors by slinging trees or using nuts and cams. This requires more knowledge and competent technique.

John Long has two books out—Climbing Anchors and How to Rock Climb—that will help you learn how to build safe, secure anchors. Pick one of these up to get started. Books, however, don’t take the place of climbing with a guide or knowledgeable friend. See sidebar for more on this.

Eli Helmuth teaches at the Colorado Mountain School and is an internationally certified mountain guide. “Learn to build toprope anchors,” he says, “then start toproping. (Later) start leading bolted routes, and then take a leading course and start leading easier trad routes.”

Building toprope anchors will start you towards leading outdoors, but as Helmuth says, a course or day out with a guide will teach you the fundamentals of safety and proper technique. There are plenty of moderate (5.6-5.9), bolted routes on the Front Range and these will make the transition to leading more gradual and safer.

Gear

For your first outings toproping, you probably need nothing more than six or eight carabiners, a rope, and several long slings or a couple “cordelettes” (long loops of six- or seven-millimeter cord). A slightly thicker rope (say 10mm instead of 9.4, for example) will wear longer and provide more friction through a belay device, making belaying a heavier climber easier at first. Once you start building your own anchors, you can get a set of chocks (like Black Diamond’s “Stoppers”) or a camming unit or two.

For starters, find a spot with anchors in place—bolts, pitons or a large tree around which to sling some cord. When setting up an anchor you’ll be near the edge of the cliff, so always protect yourself by having someone belay you while setting up the rope or clipping in to a solid secondary anchor. An experienced friend, a how-to book, or best of all a guide will show you how to do this safely. Get climbing and enjoy.

Rob Coppolillo is an AMGA-trained aspiring rock guide and started toproping outdoors with a few ‘biners, slings and a fat 11mm rope in 1986 at Morrison Cliffs.

Climbing Courses

Hands-on courses, or a day spent with a guide, will teach you more than any book. Luckily in Colorado there are myriad options for getting out on the rock with experienced folks. Here are a few to check out.

Alpine World Ascents  - Owned by Markus Beck, originally from Switzerland and certified through the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA), which means he’s qualified to guide everything from toprope classes to expeditions on Everest. www.alpineworldascents.com

Colorado Mountain Club  - You’ll need to join your local chapter of the CMC to join their courses, but the costs are minimal.  www.cmc.org

Colorado Mountain School - Classes taught by such internationally certified guides as Eli Helmuth and Dale Remsberg.  www.totalclimbing.com

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Copyright (C) 2007 Alain Georgette / Copyright (C) 2006 Frantisek Hliva. All rights reserved.